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Suzanne Belperron : une créatrice hors-norme

Suzanne Belperron: an exceptional designer

Recognized for her harmonious yet revolutionary compositions, Suzanne Belperron designs bold, modern jewelry. By daring to embrace bold shapes and colors, she has won over illustrious clients such as the Duchess of Windsor, Daisy Fellowes, and Wallis Simpson.

She has never considered it necessary to sign her works, considering their originality to make them easily identifiable.

“My style is my signature.”

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Gold Wave Cuff, 1918 - Abbacus Bracelet

1. A rising star of Art Deco jewelry

Suzanne Belperron was born in 1900 in the Jura Mountains and developed a passion for drawing and precious stones at a young age. Thanks to a yellow gold pendant watch designed during her studies at the Beaux-Arts, Suzanne won first prize in the Decorative Arts competition in 1918.

At just 20 years old, she was hired by the Boivin family. Her drawings and creations went against the grain of the times and launched Maison Boivin. During this same period, Art Deco was at its peak: jewelry was geometric, structured, and refined.

Signet ring, 1945 - Silver ring, 1922 - Wavy gadroon ring, 1942 to 1965

 

Suzanne was then recognized as a unique artist and was appreciated by all her clients and suppliers. Frustrated by the anonymity of her creations and designs, she left Maison Boivin in 1932 and became artistic director of Maison Herz, specializing in precious stones and pearls, and embodying modern jewelry like Chanel or Schiaparelli.

 

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Crown Cuff

 

2. Original Creations with International Renown

The complete freedom she gained as a designer at Herz made her an innovative woman known worldwide for her avant-garde creations. She introduced invisible setting and invented flower jewelry with petals that opened and closed. In January 1934, Suzanne Belperron's jewelry appeared on the cover of the American edition of Vogue, with the quote, "Ms. Belperron of Paris revolutionized the world of jewelry with her hand-carved precious stones."

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Gold or platinum and diamond tube bracelet, 1948 -

 

3. A unique style that reflects her personality

A tireless traveler, Suzanne travels to the Orient, India, and Africa to study ancient goldsmithing techniques and make purchases. She returns with rubies and sapphires, playing with precious and semi-precious stones, and diamonds to tell her story. Flowers, the marine world, colors, patterns—everything inspires Suzanne.

 

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Marquise wide wave ring

Jade earrings

You and me ring, diamonds

 

She immerses herself in her clients' style before creating pieces. She listens to their stories, their tastes, and observes their body shape. According to her, "the value of a piece of jewelry is less important than whether it reflects the personality of the wearer."

When I first started Mayrena, I quickly realized that women of similar character often gravitated toward the same style of jewelry. So I decided to rename the collection, since the choice of jewelry is not random; it is a continuation of our personality.

4. The End of a Stunning Post-World War II Career

During World War II, Suzanne did everything she could to hide the identity of her Jewish clients and protect Herz, who was of Jewish descent and would end his life in Auschwitz. She faced the Gestapo and fought until joining the resistance in 1956.

In 1963, she was awarded the title of Chevalier of the Legion of Honor for her talents as a jewelry designer. After her death, her jewelry was reissued, and her archives were revealed to the public and are still sold today at major auction houses.

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